Squash Sensations for the Holiday Table
Believe it or not, there are over 700 known species in the gourd family. Which begs the question: beyond hanging in the sukkah, what does one actually do with a gourd? Quite a lot it seems. Historically, gourds have been used by people throughout the world for infinite artistic craft purposes: musical instruments, pipes, masks, canteens, water jugs, dippers, birdhouses, bath sponges and as decorative pieces with intricate etched designs. So important were gourds to Haitian people in the early 1800s, they were temporarily made the national currency. Some of the most delicious members of the gourd family include squash, pumpkin, cucumber and melons. As autumn is winter squash season, squash has become my go-to ingredient when crafting holiday menus that illustrate Hashem’s overflowing bounty on our tables.
Though butternut and acorn squash happen to be the most commonly-found supermarket varieties available, there are many others worth trying—sweet dumpling, banana, delicata, spaghetti, kabocha and buttercup varieties, just to name a few. Each type has its own special flavor and texture appropriate for different uses. Some have sweeter, creamier flesh for purees, while others are perfectly shaped and suited for stuffing.
Squash Tips:
Due to its thick peel and hard texture, winter squash can be tough to prepare. But don’t be discouraged. A good peeler, a sharp chef’s knife and some “elbow grease” can make all the difference in your preparations. Even so, some prep tips are always helpful.
• For winter squash with a thin or smooth enough rind to be peeled, (such as butternut or buttercup squash), follow these steps for an easier prep:
› Trim ends
› Cut the squash in half lengthwise
› Using a good peeler, peel away the tough skin
› Scoop out the seeds
› Cut as needed (i.e. chunks, cubes, dice)
Once peeled and cut, it can be boiled, roasted, steamed, sautéed, etc. and used in your favorite dishes.
• Round acorn or sweet dumpling squash are not practical to peel as the natural grooves make a peeler difficult to maneuver. Most people opt to cook them unpeeled—simply scrub, halve, seed and bake. The skin is edible; however, if tough, the cooked flesh can be scooped and eaten out of its “cup,” discarding the skin. I like to roast the halves drizzled with maple syrup, olive oil, salt, pepper and cinnamon—simple, yet delicious! Additionally, these small-sized squash make them ideal choices as “stuffing” squash.
• Squash puree is essential for use in baking. The most conventional method is to use boiled/steamed cubed squash. That said, the easiest method of preparation is pre-roasting: cut squash in half, scoop out the seeds, and bake cut-side down at 375–400F° until fork tender (about 45 minutes). Once baked, the cooked flesh can be scooped out of the skin and then mashed or pureed.
• Winter squash store very well— they’ll last the “winter” in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location (like a cellar) for use within two–four months. Check periodically for rot.
• Refrigerated, cut pieces of winter squash will last up to a week stored in plastic storage bags or wrap.
• Choose firm, well-shaped squash that are heavy for their size and have a hard, smooth skin. Avoid any with sunken or moldy spots, cuts, or punctures in the skin.
• Some helpful equivalents in your squash adventures may include:
› 1 pound peeled squash = 1 cup cooked, mashed
› 2½ pound whole squash = 2¾–3 cups pureed
› ⅓–½ pound raw unpeeled squash = 1 serving
Squash/gourd have a symbolic place on the Rosh Hashanah table as well. One of the mnemonic simanim mentioned in the Talmud, the Aramaic word for squash is k’ra. We ask G-d to tear up our evil verdicts (“l’kroah”) and that our merits be called out before Him (“vayikareh”). May these squash recipes both grace your tables with color and flavor, and inspire blessings from Above for the coming year!
Photo: Baila Gluck
Cream of Butternut Squash Soup
Yields 6–8 servings
Make this warming soup your own by using fun toppings to garnish: spiced pepitas, homemade croutons, or even fried sage leaves.
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 teaspoon Kosher salt, and more to taste
2 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
1 large sweet potato, cut into chunks
1 butternut squash—peeled, seeded, cut into chunks
5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
½ teaspoon thyme
1–2 tablespoons honey
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
¾–1 cup half & half, cream or soymilk/non-dairy creamer
Fresh chopped parsley, for garnishing
Heat butter or oil in a Dutch oven or large pot over medium heat. Add onion, celery and salt, sautéing until translucent, about 5 minutes.
Add carrots, sweet potato, and butternut squash. Sauté another 5 minutes until slightly tender. Add ginger and stock.
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cook covered, simmering for approximately 30 minutes or until everything is tender. Remove from heat.
Use an immersion blender to puree soup (or puree in batches in blender or food processor).
Add honey, thyme, nutmeg and pepper. Whisk in ¾ cup half & half/soymilk and heat gently (but do not bring to a boil). Add additional water or half & half if soup is too thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with chopped parsley or thyme.
Maple-Glazed Turkey Roulade with Butternut Squash Stuffing. Photo: Baila Gluck
Maple-Glazed Turkey Roulade with Butternut Squash Stuffing
Yields 6–8 servings
This elegant entrée can easily be doubled to serve a larger crowd. Ask your butcher to butterfly the turkey roast and leave the skin on. Veal brisket can be used in place of turkey (for a 4–5 lb. veal brisket, cooking time after searing should be extended to 1½ hours at 350°F). Stuffing can be used to stuff individual boneless capons as well.
Butternut Squash Stuffing
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion (about 1 medium onion)
1 teaspoon minced garlic (1 clove)
2 cups diced butternut squash
½ teaspoon Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1½ teaspoon fresh chopped thyme
1 cup chopped baby Bella or cremini mushrooms
¼ cup coarse fresh bread crumbs or panko bread crumbs
Roulade
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 (2½–3 pound) boneless turkey breast roast, butterflied (with skin on)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup dry white wine, divided
¼ cup pure maple syrup
Special Equipment
8–10 pieces kitchen twine (for tying the roulade), roasting pan, roasting rack
Prepare stuffing: Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add chopped onion and sauté for 4–5 minutes, or until just translucent.
Add garlic and butternut squash, stirring to coat with oil. Season with Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Sauté for another 6–7 minutes, or until squash starts to become tender.
Add thyme and mushrooms. Stir to blend and sauté another 4–5 minutes, or until mushrooms begin to wilt. Remove from heat; add bread crumbs to the pan, stirring to distribute. Set mixture aside to cool.
To prepare roulade: Preheat oven to 450°F. Combine 2 tablespoons olive oil, paprika and black pepper in a small bowl. Mix to blend and set aside.
Lay butterflied turkey breast out flat on a large cutting board or work space. Pound to an even ½-inch thickness. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mound and spread the squash mixture on top of the breast, leaving a small border uncovered. Fold in the tenderloin flap, and then carefully continue to roll up the turkey, tucking in the ends such that the skin is now facing up. Secure and tie the roulade closed with pieces of kitchen twine spaced at 1–2 inch intervals (You may want to secure the roulade first with toothpicks). Place the tied roulade in a heavy roasting pan on a rack; rub spice mixture all over the exterior of the roulade.
Place roulade in oven for 15–20 minutes to brown exterior. Pour ½ cup white wine into the bottom of the roasting pan and cover with foil. Reduce heat to 350°F and bake for approximately 45 minutes (internal temperature should reach 165°F). Remove from oven and allow roulade to rest for 15 minutes.
Transfer roulade to a platter, reserving pan juices in the roasting pan.* Place roasting pan on stove over medium heat, add maple syrup and remaining ¼ cup wine. Bring to boil, and scrape up browned bits with a spatula to deglaze. Reduce heat to low and simmer for about 5–10 minutes or until sauce is thickened and slightly syrupy. Remove from heat. Skim off excess fat if necessary, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Cut and remove twine, then slice roulade into 1-inch rounds. Arrange on a platter and drizzle with glaze (or serve sauce on the side).
*If your roasting pan is not suited for stovetop cooking, simply pour the pan juices and any scraped bits into a small saucepan. Continue with glaze directions.
“Squiggle”
Yields 1 large kugel
This recipe for squash kugel or “Squiggle” (as it has been affectionately named in my house) is a cross between a custardy souffle and a flan. Warm flavors of maple and cinnamon make it a sweet side dish or light dessert. While I like to use fresh squash for this dish, 30 oz of frozen butternut squash can be used as well.
1 medium butternut squash (about 2½–3 pounds), peeled, seeded and cubed
½ cup melted coconut oil
5 eggs
¼ cup oat/soy milk
⅓ cup pure maple syrup
⅓ cup sugar
¾ cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons vanilla
½ teaspoon cinnamon, plus more for sprinkling
Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch baking dish with non-stick cooking spray.
Place squash in a pot and cover with 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Simmer for 20–25 minutes, or until very tender. Drain well.
Add coconut oil, eggs, oat milk, maple syrup, and sugar to the squash. Using an immersion blender (or potato masher), blend until smooth. Add remaining ingredients and blend well.
Pour mixture into prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with cinnamon. Bake, uncovered for 35–45 minutes, or until set and edges are slightly golden. Slice into squares and serve warm or room temperature.
Spiced Pumpkin Bread
Yields 2 loaf cakes
A warming pumpkin gingerbread cake—perfect for cool nights in the sukkah with tea (or leftovers with your morning coffee!).
4 cups all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ cup melted coconut oil
½ cup canola oil
1½ cups sugar
½ cup molasses
4 eggs
2 cups pure pumpkin puree (14.5 oz can)
1 cup oat/soy milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Molasses-Bourbon Glaze:
1½ cups powdered sugar
2½ teaspoons molasses
2 teaspoons bourbon whiskey
4–5 teaspoons water
Cider Glaze:
1½ cups powdered sugar
2 tablespoons apple cider
Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and line 2 (9×5”) loaf pans with parchment paper.
Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg and ginger in a large bowl; whisk to blend well. Set aside.
In a mixer, cream together oils, sugar, molasses and eggs until light and fluffy. Add dry ingredients mixture, alternating with adding oat milk and vanilla, blending until just smooth.
Scrape down sides and mix once more; divide batter between pans and smooth tops. Bake for 50–60 minutes or until toothpick inserted comes out clean. Remove from oven and transfer to rack to cool. Remove cakes from pans and continue to cool completely on rack.
Whisk together all ingredients for the glaze of your choice. Drizzle glaze over cakes (allow time to set and firm).
Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor and food writer based in Woodmere, New York. She teaches classes throughout the country and writes articles connecting delicious cooking and Jewish inspiration. Her first cookbook is The Giving Table.